Cheat day

A Remarkable Person (3)

“The side dish judge looks deeply moved,” said Jwa Wang-taek, snapping me back to reality.

“Yes. It’s really delicious. The scallop texture is so tender, and the accompanying sauce is exquisite. The onion, garlic, and pepper blend together perfectly, offering a balance of sweetness, spiciness, and umami.”

I was deeply contemplating what score to give.

“Actually, these days, some restaurants—no, quite a few places—overemphasize spiciness, and I wonder if that’s really the right approach. Spiciness in our country wasn’t always like this.”

The judges and panelists nodded in agreement.

“However, this garlic scallop dish seems to remind us of what deliciously spicy food should be. I’d love to give it a perfect score of 10, but since I don’t know what dishes will come next, I’ll give it a benchmark score of 9.”

Although I genuinely wanted to give it a perfect 10, I couldn’t do so for the first dish, given the uncertainty of the subsequent offerings.

So, I raised my score to 9.

“We’re starting off with a high score.”

“As the judge mentioned, Korean food hasn’t always been this spicy,” said judge Park Jeong-ah, supporting my statement.

“Oh? Really?”

“That’s right. It doesn’t seem like it used to be this spicy.”

“So when did it become spicy?”

The host and the panel reacted to Judge Park Jeong-ah’s words.

“It had shown signs of change before, but it’s typically traced back to the early 2010s. What food comes to mind when you think of spiciness?”

“Tteokbokki?”

“Ramen!”

The panelists answered one by one.

“Yes. Tteokbokki began industrializing in the 2000s, and at that time, the standard was moderately spicy and sweet tteokbokki. Then around 2010, super spicy tteokbokki started gaining attention. In 2012, a catalyst emerged.”

“Spicy stir-fried noodles!”

Since this is a broadcast and a program supported by Ottogi, I can’t mention the product name directly, but it’s something everyone knows.

Samyang’s Buldak Bokkeummyeon.

Released in 2012, Buldak Bokkeummyeon became an unprecedented hit with its unique umami and spiciness.

It became a cash cow for Samyang, and from that point, spicy foods featuring Buldak Bokkeummyeon entered their heyday.

Since then, trends in the dining and food industries, such as mala, rose, and tteok-bokki, have all been based on spiciness, showing just how much Koreans love spicy food.

The ongoing trend of spiciness that began in 2010 has lasted for over a decade, and that’s likely the reason.

“So, this is quite a recent phenomenon, isn’t it? Eating spicy food.”

“Though the degree of spiciness may vary,” said judge Park Jeong-ah, finishing her statement as judge Ham Seok-ho opened his mouth.

“The theme of Round 3 is spiciness, so we should pay attention to what kind of spiciness each participant presents.”

Ham Seok-ho’s words felt particularly significant.

“Whether they’ll show a strong, intense spiciness that aligns with recent dining trends or emphasize the traditional spicy flavors is something to look forward to. In that regard, Ju Ji-seung’s dish walks that line well. It was delicious.”

Judge Ham Seok-ho awarded Ju Ji-seung 9 points.

Since receiving a high score from Ham Seok-ho usually leads to high scores from the other judges as well, I felt delighted as if it were my own success.

And indeed, judges Park Jeong-ah and Oh Mi-kyung both awarded 9 points each.

Lee Chan-seok spoke up.

“I also enjoyed the dish, just like the other judges. With the increase in delivery services, many places have been overusing capsaicin, but this wasn’t that kind of low-quality dish. The umami and spiciness were well combined with garlic, onions, and pepper. I’ll give it an 8.”

“We’re starting off with high scores. Adding the panel scores, Ju Ji-seung has a total of 48 points, bringing his overall score to 92, and he currently ranks first.”

“That’s a high score that could lead to a round victory.”

Woo Wang-seon and Jwa Wang-taek called the next participant to the judging table.

“Choi Eun-sam, please explain your dish.”

“Yes. I made spicy braised short ribs with Yeongcheon onions and Cheongyang peppers.”

Choi Eun-sam served the spicy short ribs and white rice to the judges and panelists.

It’s not particularly special, but the appearance and aroma of the braised ribs alone are enough to make one’s mouth water.

“Hmm.”

The meat separates easily from the bone.

As I shredded the meat, I noticed that the seasoning was well absorbed. Putting it in my mouth with rice, the sweet yet spicy sauce filled my palate.

“Whew. Huh.”

As I blew on it to cool it down, the flavor intensified, and the sweetness became more pronounced as I continued to eat.

If Ju Ji-seung’s garlic scallop dish skillfully combined umami and spiciness, Choi Eun-sam’s short ribs showcased a delightful blend of sweetness and spiciness.

“Wow.”

I couldn’t help but let out an exclamation, prompting Woo Wang-seon to ask, “Are you impressed again, Ban Chan-yong? How does it taste?”

“It’s so delicious. I was curious about why Choi Eun-sam put the ingredients in the pressure cooker so early, but now I understand. The meat is incredibly tender.”

Choi Eun-sam quickly finished preparing all the ingredients and put them in the pressure cooker as soon as cooking began.

With plenty of time left, he tidied up the area, and I worried about whether it was okay for him to finish so early.

However, only after tasting the spicy short ribs did I understand the reason behind his approach.

“I noticed you made delicate cuts in the rib meat. You paid attention to ensure the seasoning penetrated deep inside, and cooking it for a long time in the pressure cooker seems to have resulted in such tender meat. The sauce, which is enhanced by a generous amount of onion, is both sweet and spicy, complementing the soft ribs perfectly. I could honestly eat a bowl of rice on its own with this.”

I was torn.

While Ju Ji-seung’s garlic scallops were incredibly delicious, Choi Eun-sam’s short ribs were simply outstanding.

For someone like me, who is sensitive to spiciness, it was perfectly balanced—spicy enough yet harmonizing beautifully with the sweetness.

After much deliberation, I wrote down a score of 10.

“10 points! Judge Ban Chan-yong has given a perfect score. Today is quite intense.”

Judge Park Jeong-ah wiped her mouth and spoke up.

“You’ve hit the nail on the head, Ban Chan-yong. For spicy braised short ribs, the combination of seasonings, how well they penetrate, and the texture of the meat all matter, and this dish meets all those criteria. It was a dish that showcased a high level of skill to complete within the allotted time.”

Judge Park Jeong-ah awarded 9 points to contestant number 3, Choi Eun-sam.

Next, Ham Seok-ho chimed in.

“Traditional Korean cuisine is generally quite mild. This is true for royal court cuisine and sacrificial offerings as well.”

Everyone listened intently.

“In particular, high-end cuisine, regardless of the country, focuses on highlighting the natural flavors of the ingredients. Since salty, sweet, and spicy flavors can be polarizing, chefs must maintain a balance with seasonings that cater to discerning palates while maximizing the taste of good ingredients.”

That sounds reasonable.

It would be risky to serve a dish that doesn’t appeal to the taste of a king or a nobleman.

Thus, dishes should incorporate all types of flavors—sweet, salty, sour, bitter, umami, fatty, and spicy, as well as astringent flavors—without being excessive.

“In that regard, this short rib dish is a high-quality dish that many people can enjoy. It seems Choi Eun-sam has successfully showcased his skills for the first time in the Korean cuisine appreciation event. Well done.”

Choi Eun-sam bowed in gratitude to Ham Seok-ho, who gave him a 10.

Oh Mi-kyung and Lee Chan-seok both followed suit, awarding him 9 points each, bringing Choi Eun-sam’s total to 95 points, the highest score recorded across all rounds so far.

“Choi Eun-sam seems so overwhelmed that he can hardly speak. I’m really looking forward to today’s outcome.”

Overcome with emotion, Choi Eun-sam couldn’t express his thoughts and was misty-eyed.

It seemed he had faced a lot of mental stress in the previous two competitions.

Next, participants Sadaemun and Yuk Hye-rin scored 82 and 83 points, respectively.

Now it was the turn of contestant number 7, Park Seong-chil (37), who runs a stir-fried octopus restaurant in Cheongju.

As he distributed the food, the spicy aroma wafted up, causing me to unconsciously frown.

“Park Seong-chil, the spicy smell is quite strong. Is it okay to eat?”

“It will be very spicy, but you won’t be able to stop once you start,” he replied confidently.

“That’s some serious confidence. Is it the same taste as what you sell in Cheongju?”

“Yes, exactly.”

Feeling a bit apprehensive, I took a sip of milk prepared at the judges’ table.

Then, carefully picking up the octopus and vegetables, I put them in my mouth, and the smoky flavor hit me.

Park Seong-chil had drawn attention by ensuring that the octopus made direct contact with the heat while cooking in the frying pan, and it certainly didn’t go to waste.

With skills like this, it’s no wonder he has a reputation as a tasty restaurant, but indeed, the spiciness was intense.

“Ow.”

My tongue hurts to the point that the pain radiates into my ears.

It’s been so long since I’ve felt a spiciness that makes my scalp itch; it’s incredibly painful.

I hurriedly drank some milk, but it was no use, and I was suffering when Lee Chan-seok spat out the food beside me.

Everyone turned in surprise, and Lee Chan-seok spoke up.

“Park Seong-chil, did you really mean to serve this?”

“Excuse me?”

“I truly don’t understand. You’re not lacking in cooking skills, so why would you ruin your own dish like this?”

Ham Seok-ho, Park Jeong-ah, and Oh Mi-kyung all put down their chopsticks.

“This is food meant for a very small subset of people who enjoy the capsaicin receptors and pain-sensing cells. It’s not something to proudly present in a competition program.”

Lee Chan-seok wrote down a score of 1.

Judge Oh Mi-kyung followed up.

“As Judge Ham Seok-ho mentioned earlier, when using good ingredients, the seasoning should be done in a way that doesn’t overpower the natural flavors. Typically, strong seasonings are used to mask the flavor of the ingredients. The octopus you used, Park Seong-chil, was fresh and had a chewy texture, and the vegetables were crisp. It’s unfortunate that you chose to make it this spicy.”

Judge Oh Mi-kyung wrote down a score of 4.

Park Seong-chil could not hide his embarrassment, tightly closing his lips.

“You must take pride in your restaurant as well,” I began when it was my turn to speak.

“Since this is a competition program, you likely put in extra effort compared to usual, but I know you already use good ingredients in your everyday cooking. That’s why I felt it was more disappointing.”

There are surely people who enjoy Park Seong-chil’s stir-fried octopus, which has made it well-known as a tasty spot.

“For those who enjoy spicy food, Park Seong-chil’s dish of stir-fried octopus, enhanced with good ingredients and intense smoky flavor, is undoubtedly delicious, but I cautiously feel it is tailored to a specific group’s taste, making it hard to appeal to a wider audience.”

I wrote down a score of 6.

Ham Seok-ho refused to comment and gave a score of 2, while Judge Park Jeong-ah awarded 5 points.

“Park Seong-chil’s stir-fried octopus isn’t wrong. It clearly reflects the current dining trends and has improved in quality. However, as Ban Chan-yong mentioned, it feels like food made for a specific group. The stir-frying method and ingredient preparation were excellent, but the lack of consideration for the diners played a significant role in the overall assessment.”